» » Everest: Kangshung Face
e-Book Everest: Kangshung Face epub download

e-Book Everest: Kangshung Face epub download

Author: Stephen Venables
ISBN: 0340423668
Pages: 236 pages
Publisher: Hodder & Stoughton; 1st Edition edition (1989)
Language: English
Size ePUB: 1879 kb
Size Fb2: 1844 kb
Size DJVU: 1146 kb
Rating: 4.9
Votes: 693
Format: mobi lrf mbr lit
Subcategory: Sport

e-Book Everest: Kangshung Face epub download

by Stephen Venables

The Kangshung Face or East Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest, one of the Chinese sides of the mountain. It is 3,350 metres (11,000 ft) from its base on the Kangshung Glacier to the summit.

The Kangshung Face or East Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest, one of the Chinese sides of the mountain.

We’re dedicated to reader privacy so we never track you.

Five years later, Stephen Venables intensified the challenge by leading three unknown American climbers up the East Face - this time without oxygen.

Every day, the path up the South Col route to the summit of Everest becomes. Five years later, Stephen Venables intensified the challenge by leading three unknown American climbers up the East Face - this time without oxygen. The question to most climbing experts wasn't whether they would summit, but whether they would live.

Stephen Venables – mountaineer, public speaker, award-winning writer and leader of ing .

Internationally acclaimed mountaineer, writer and broadcaster and the first Briton to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen. Canadian team on a pioneering new route up the gigantic Kangshung Face, Stephen reached the summit alone after his three team mates were forced to retreat.

item 7 Everest, Kangshung Face by Venables, Stephen Paperback Book The Cheap Fast Free -Everest, Kangshung . In 1988 Venables pushed on alone to the summit of Everest, following an ascent of the Kangshung Face.

item 7 Everest, Kangshung Face by Venables, Stephen Paperback Book The Cheap Fast Free -Everest, Kangshung Face by Venables, Stephen Paperback Book The Cheap Fast Free. He was only the eighth Briton to stand on the top of Everest, and the first to do so without the use of oxygen supplies.

This is the story of the author's remarkable feat of climbing to the summit of Mount Everest alone, unaided by oxygen and by a new route, in 1988. His previous book "Painted Mountains" won the Boardman Tasker Award for Climbing Literature. About the Author: Stephen Venables is one of the best-known mountaineers of his generation and the author of EVEREST - ALONE AT THE SUMMIT.

com's Stephen Venables Author Page. Everest: Kangshung Face Jan 1, 1989. Usually ships within 2 to 3 weeks.

In 1988, Stephen Venables became the first Briton to summit Everest without oxygen. The Kangshung Face remains the least frequented of Everest’s flanks due to its narrow gullies, hanging glaciers and steep rock buttresses. Everest: Alone at the Summit is the story of his thrilling journey. This, however, did not deter Venables and his team of three international climbers, Ed Webster, Robert Anderson and Paul Teare, who not only attempted this dangerous route, but did so without the use of supplementary oxygen - testing boundaries, exploring the unknown and pushing the limits of human endurance.

Everest: Kangshung Face by Stephen Venables Hodder & Stoughton Price: Rs 325; Pages: 236. Since 1953 more than 200 climbers have reached its summit. Yet once in a while, along comes a climber who is able to combine an extremely difficult route with the quality of survival necessary for returning to tell the tale.

This is the story of the author's remarkable feat of climbing to the summit of Mount Everest alone, unaided by oxygen and by a new route, in 1988. His previous book "Painted Mountains" won the Boardman Tasker Award for Climbing Literature.
This book was okay. I mostly like the photographs because the book is too wordy for me to find engaging and fascinating. I would have appreciated fewer words and more photographs.
Everest: Kanqshung Face. Stephen Venables. Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1989. 236 pages, B&W and color photographs, maps.
Stephen Venables, 34, raised in a somewhat cloistered Oxford milieu (receiving a Masters in English Literature) has been moving quietly forward in the ranks of current world class British mountaineers. With the climb described in this book, he has leaped to their very forefront. He ha-also proven himself a writer of equal standing. His first book, “Painted Mountains,” attracted much attention when it won the coveted Boardman-Tasker Memorial Award for mountaineering literature in 1986. It revealed a clear, literate writing style of unaffected frankness, and the hot spark of mountaineering ambition.
This second book, with Everest as its subject, will attract a much wider audience. It is the saga of four men attempting the impossible--climbing Mt. Everest without oxygen or Sherpas up a new route (to 8000m) comprising great variety of technical difficulties (one of which is an honest-to-God Tyrolean Traverser at 6500m!). The climb begins at the base of the East (Kangshung) Face of Everest at 5450m, weaving directly up to the South Col. From there they plan to follow the SE Ridge (Hillary) route to the summit.
This story begins with Venables traveling to New York City to be interviewed by expedition leader Robert Anderson, a New Zealander, for a place on the team. An instant liking develops for Anderson's breezy, bounding energy. American Ed Webster is the second member, who Venables knows, and Paul Teare, a Canadian living in California, is the third. Anderson and Stephen hit it off and he is asked to join. No sooner does he agree than the mountain begins its siren call: "...I pushed fears and doubts aside and leapt up the left hand rail of the escalator two steps at a time, dreaming wild exuberant dreams of Everest."
Upon reaching Base Camp (BC), most expeditions to Everest hunker down to sort tons of gear, acclimatize and gird their loins. Not Venables et al. They go onto action immediately, site Advance Base Camp (ABC) the next day and begin a six-day push fixing ropes up their 3500m-high route.
Here is a sample of Venables' diary entry on this push:
"Day Six on Buttress. Up very wearily at 2:30am, determined to help Paul and Robert carry and to lead the next pitch up....Very slow. Pain under ribs. Cough. Sore throat. Legs like lead. Weight of 100-meter rope, gas stoves and food. Counting rope--now twelve of them in place, mostly 100 metres--so over 1000 metros to climb back up. Again it was a fourteen-hour day--like doing a major alpine route two days running, with only five or six hours' sleep in between. And at much higher altitude."
Venables later glories in the mixture of climbing terrain he gets to lead--rock, mixed and pure ice. The group makes excellent progress, with only a few short bouts of bad weather, well-timed to enforce rest days. Once the group surmounts the main buttress (to the left of the American Buttress of 1983) the mood quickly turns to one of hard-driving exhilaration. Climbing a particularly sheer ice face, Venables exalts-; "And what an ice pitch!... poised...as if on the crest of a gigantic wave about to crash down into the Kangshung basin. All my tiredness vanished and I raced on adrenalin, stabbing my way manically upwards as the clouds closed in, swirling grey around the Kangshung cirque."
Finally, on May 10th, after eleven hours to climb 500m, they stumble out onto the huge, wind-blasted South Col, hoping against hope to meet up with members of the monstrous Asian Friendship Expeditions which was climbing the mountain from both sides simultaneously. But no such luck. Venables recalls:
"It was ghastly. There were no welcoming tents, no smiling faces, no mugs of steaming tea. There was nothing. Just Ed bent into the screaming wind, staggering across a desolate plateau of rock and ice with the rope bent out behind him by the wind."
Here Paul Teare begins to vomit uncontrollably. They discuss the matter but do nothing. With summit fever now burning in each heart, no one volunteers to conduct Paul down, each hoping the other will make the sacrifice. Venables seems to evade this issue, but later, in an appendix, he lists some of the earliest Everesters who had split up when one partner was unable to continue.
Within a few hours Paul recovers enough to climb down alone. At this point a new threshold of risk-taking has been wordlessly crossed. The remaining three struggle to begin their summit attempt, but are stricken by lassitude. It is late morning before they leave the tent, and the combination of wind and altitude has taken much of the heart out of them. Each spends what seems like hours sitting down to rest while precious time races by.
As Venables plods upward, Everest ghosts flutter before his eyes. When he approaches the South Summit, it is Tenzing Norgay and Raymond Lambert, of the Swiss expedition of 1952, who pass into view. As he surmounts it, Evans and Bourdillon appear, who ended their attempt at this point in 1953 due to insufficient oxygen and deteriorating weather. Tenzing Norgay, this time with Hillary, rise in his mind's eye as he contemplaits the Hillary Step. Hillary was able to wedge his way up, while Dougal Haston floundered up in powder snow. Venables is delighted to discover that he can climb the step which is in good condition.
And finally the summit: "...I wanted to savour that precious moment, storing away what memories I could in my feeble oxygen starved brain. It would be nice to say that it was the happiest moment of my life and that I was overwhelmed by euphoria; but that would be a gross exaggeration, for at the time there was only a rather dazed feeling of--'Isn't this strange?"'
As he turns to leave, Everest's largest ghost--George Mallory-appears. Venables hurries down, anxious not to share his fate. If the ascent was carried out in a dream, the descent becomes a nightmare. A different cast of ghosts appear: Mike Burke who disappeared on the summit ridge; Peter Habler in terror of suffering high altitude brain damage; Hannelore Schmatz, whose ice-encased body sat on the route for years.
Unable to continue down in the dark, and nearly comatose with fatigue, Venables bivouacs in the open that still night at 8500m. The next morning he meets up with his companions farther down. They have a similar story to tell. They kept falling asleep. Ed had reached below the South Summit and realized clearly that this was the moment to turn back. Robert, an hour behind, passed Ed and attained the South Summit only to become disoriented. "'After I'd walked around in a circle once, I realized that if I tired to continue I wouldn’t come back."' Ed and Robert had retreated half-way down to the South Col, reaching an abandoned Asian tent just as darkness fell.
Now together the three descend to their tents on the Cal, melt a meager ration of water, lick their wounds and collapse. Ed Webster is the worst off. His fingers are---urple with frost bite, and he surmises--but cannot remember clearly--that the damage must have occurred during an evening photography session. They cannot bring themselves to leave the comfort of their tiny tents, but finally Ed cajoles his companions to don their climbing gear and move down. For safety each climbs separately, for none could hold the other in a fall.
Venables starts a glissade that speeds out of control, echoing the uncontrolled slide of Woodrow Wilson Sayre, of the other oxygenless four-man Everest team which in 1962 climbed so boldly (and illegally) to 25,500 ft on the North Ridge (Mallory) route. Like Sayre, Venables is fiercely beat-up by rocks which slows his fall. He loses his ice axe and an outer mitten, and for a moment he panics. All three reach Camp Two where there is food and fuel.
Time and again they pass out while melting snow and spill the water. Again it is Ed Webster who urges them on to dress and descend, but it is 3 PM before he can goad them into action.
Darkness falls quickly and Ed, out in front, cannot find the route in the darkness. Ed forces their return back up to C-2, where there is still a little fuel and food.
Next morning, having been above 7000m for 7 days, Venables glances at his friend. "Ed looked like an old man. His face was lean and haggard, his hair hung lankily and the light had gone out of his eyes as he stared in horror at his swollen blistered fingers. His voice too was the dry croak of an old man, repeating over and over again, 'We've got to go down. We must go down. If we don't go down today we're going to die."' Save -Webster's croaking, none could help the other. Thanks to Ed's constant nagging, they get moving down with Ed again leading the way to ABC. Paul Teare pops out of a tent astonished at the sight of his friends given up for dead. Anderson staggers in 18 hours later.
In this intensely told epic of conquest and descent the issue of how much risk climbers are justified in taking is writ large, but not deeply analyzed. Venables does not preach but describes with great realism what happened. There is not a word of psychobabble.
But while realistic and detailed, his description of the retreat below the South Col was obtained only by painstaking reconstruction after interviewing each of the climbers. Severe amnesia affected them all. Their ragged and broken states of mind raises some troubling questions: If one climbs in order to experience the pleasure of it, it is done to please oneself. If one cannot remember a sensational climb because it was oxygenless, does it become only a remarkable feat done to please others? In this vein the question 'Why do you climb?' would be better asked 'For whom do you climb?' Or is the residual sense of enormous achievement reward enough?
Stephen Venables has a wonderful knack for explaining how he surmounts a climbing-problem without seeming- to be writing a textbook. Serious climbers will find a trove of techniques to study, which are described clearly enough for non-climbers to understand. Climbers or not, all will be interested in this mountaineering thriller of a tiny band pulling off an incredible victory, an account so stirring it will-be put down only to obtain a moment's breather. It is a story that will take its place along the other outstanding sagas of Everest--Norton's “The Fiqht for Everest, 1924;” Lord Hunt's “The Ascent of Everest;” Hornbein's “Everest, the West Ridqe”; and Bonington's “Everest the Hard Way.”
The book is elegantly designed by long-time Everest publishers Hodder Stoughton with 48 pages of breathtaking color photographs, all beautifully printed. Detail photos lead the reader carefully along the new route. The quality of the photography is outstanding, and does much to prove what an extraordinary accomplishment these four climbers achieved. (Review written in 1990.)